This page was written by Steven J. DeRose in early 2003, and was last updated on 2003-04-12.
This page discusses the different kinds of gas masks, from mil-spec NBC protection on down to what you can throw together in a minute from common materials. I believe gas masks are a worthwhile investment, so long as you understand their limitations (especially that for civilians their best purpose is to buy time to escape), take the time to learn to use them properly, and try to keep them near enough to be useful (like, say, in your car).
(under construction; and I am *not* an expert on this)
The types of masks discussed below are organized from best to worst. Remember that masks are not just useful in terrorist attacks -- if you have a road or a train track within a few miles, you could encounter accidental chemical spills of almost anything.
You can also use a full-fledged NBC mask for workshop protection. They'll certainly do a fine job on non-lethal dusts, and they'll give you eye and face protection much better than hardware-store goggles. They'll also steam up a lot less. And using them this way will keep you in practice. Weigh that against the added wear and tear on the mask. Then again, since the probability you'll use your mask for real is pretty low, getting some use out of it (and saving the cost of non-lethal irritant masks) could be a plus.
This involves air tanks rather than filters. The chance you'll have this around when you need it is slim: too expensive, heavy, requires training, and doesn't last long. But, as I say in many places, if you're stuck you use whatever you have. The only likely way you'll have an item in this category is if you're an avid scuba diver, or a medical professional. In either case, I assume you know how to use it better than I do.
Note: I can't help but picture the James Bond scene where he uses air from the tires of his sunken car, to breathe until the killers watching are certain he must have drowned. I once figured out how much time you could get that way, and the scene wasn't unreasonable; but wheels aren't portable, and they don't buy you very long at all, so don't bother trying this one at home.
Some basic rules about gas masks, before you go out and buy one:
A decent mask will probably cost around $100. Filters aren't cheap either. As with other equipment (or stocks for that matter), if you want one, buy it before it becomes obvious that you should, or you won't be able to get one. If you're buying for a group (like your family), get all the same kind.
Most filters claim to last 8 hours -- reality depends on how much of what stuff they have to neutralize. Some chemicals like diphosgene use up masks' filtering capacity far faster than others. How many you want is anybody's guess.
During "duct tape week" I saw a woman at a hardware store buying several painter-style masks -- they're designed to keep out paint fumes, asbestos, fiberglass dust, and so on. Don't think for a moment these are anything like as good as a real military-style gas mask. But they can protect against some things. Depending on what comes at you, and how much, they could save your life... or not.
In this regard, remember that chemical leaks from train or truck crashes happen much more frequently than terrorist chemical attacks. Many such chemicals can be neutralized by these masks, giving you time to escape.
Big hardware stores carry these, and they typically cost $20-30. Replacement cartridges cost almost as much. They come in many varieties. Every company seems to have incompatible filters, and there are many filter types for particular uses. MSA has a good brand reputation.
Allergy Be Gone sells a variety of cartridges for a "6000 Series" mask, that protect against various things: organic vapors, acid gasses, Ammonia Methylamine, Formaldehyde, Mercury Vapor, Chlorine.
These masks do not cover the whole face, just the nose and mouth, which means they will not help you enough against eye irritants (of which there are many). If you get them, practice putting them on, and know how to test the seal (basically cover the air intake and then try breathing in -- if you get anything, it's not sealed. Also, just to remind yourself that they aren't real, try generating some nasty smoke, like from a campfire, or from cutting wood with a dull power saw blade. I discovered by accident that these masks do nothing for that.
A mask has to make a tight fit all around, so when you breath in you only get air that comes through the filter. They generally have a full-face plastic front, a soft rubber edge, and 5 or 6 straps to hold them on. There are separate one-way valves to let out exhaled air. The filter is a separate piece, and may have several parts:
In emergency preparedness circles, stuff you throw together at the last minute from whatever you have available, is called "expedient" protection. In a pinch, get anything you can between you and the contaminated air. Even a coffee filter, gauze pads, or some cloth will catch some portion of dust. If the dust is dangerous, breathing less of it is better.
With all the "masks" in this section, adding a pair of swimming goggles is a good idea. Some toxins can be absorbed through the eyes easier than through the skin; and closing off your nose (heck, use a clothespin if you have to) is a lot safer than trying to remember never to breath through it. But none of these will do much; in a pinch they may be better than nothing; or they may just be equal to nothing, depending on the situation. Get a real mask well ahead of time, and keep it where you can get to it fast a large percentage of the time.
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